Text and Photos Arianna Cristiano*

 

There is something magical about Langhe during the first days of autumn: an apparent calm seems to pervade the air, the days get gloomier but the nature all around does not yet seem ready to take off its summer clothes. We, on the other hand, have to change clothes, and how. The air becomes sharper, and if just a few days before we were blissfully splashing in the pool, now it becomes impossible not to seek refuge in the warm embrace of fleece sweatshirts and oversize sweaters, the same ones that will accompany us all winter.

It is precisely on one of these days in mid-September that we meet four special people who open the doors of their magical place to us, in Lequio Tanaro, in the Costamagna district.

It is here that the Podere del Vescovo is located, an ancient residence from the 1700s transformed into a farm, where days pass by between tastings of local products and walks in the woods, together with the numerous animals that live in the farm, including alpacas, horses, goats and his majesty the Black Piedmontese pig.

 

Rural hospitality for travelers

Podere del Vescovo is a picturesque escape into the heart of nature. Nestled amidst rolling the hills known as the Langhe region, this 1700 mansion consists of a traditional stone building with a warm and inviting atmosphere. The surroundings are dotted with vineyards and fields, painting a breathtaking landscape of greenery and beauty. The peaceful atmosphere is only broken by the occasional sounds of the animals, which are the very protagonists of this place.

The history of this place is written in the history books: as a testament to its historical significance, a crest depicting the pilgrim with a shell welcomes us. This was in fact the summer residence of the Bishop of Asti, and in the past it housed pilgrims seeking shelter and a hot meal before resuming their long journey to Santiago de Compostela.

Flash forward — It’s 2023 and Andrea and his wife Kelly now live here, along with their two beautiful children, Santiago and Alma, filling this ancient place with a new warmth, making it once again a crossroads of people and stories that intertwine, blending new ideas with ancient traditions. This is where the key concept of this project was born: rural hospitality for travelers.

And what traveler wouldn’t want to stop here? Here you will find friendly faces, breathtaking scenery, and genuine flavors of local products. And what better way to recover from a long walk than to gather around a table or a picnic blanket and treat yourself to a true country merenda.

Whether you’re looking for a relaxing getaway or an immersive experience in the countryside, Podere del Vescovo offers a taste of the rural Italian lifestyle surrounded by breathtaking beauty.

The farm

But before we bask in our favorite activity (spoiler: eating and drinking), let’s take a tour of the farm. Andrea guides us and tells us the history of this place, built on ancient walls and surrounded by nature, where he raises pigs, goats, horses, and… alpacas. Yes, because one of the most fun activities planned by Andrea and Kelly for their guests is certainly the walk with the alpacas that roam happily inside the farm and accompany visitors along a path through the woods of Langa. The route is simple and takes about 90 minutes, but for the more adventurous, there is also the possibility of participating in a longer agri-trekking (4.5 km for a duration of about 3 hours), along the path that connects Podere del Vescovo to the Baladin Open Garden, the oldest artisanal brewery in Italy, where the guests can have a beer before going back.

Upon returning from the walk, Andrea takes his guests to meet another of the symbols of his farm: the Piedmontese Black Pig, a native breed, characterized by the dark color and recognizable by its white snout and legs.

Here, these animals are raised in the wild and have at their disposal an entire forest with a pond to immerse themselves in and splash around, especially on summer days. Andrea takes care of them with great dedication and kindness. And it’s also thanks to him that this particular pig is now the king of this territory: in fact, it is the only recognized breed of Piedmontese pigs by the Italian Ministry in 2020.

All this walking stimulates the appetite, and for this reason, Andrea and Kelly have thought of many different proposals to enjoy a tasting experience immersed in nature. Agricultural snacks and picnics to be enjoyed in the courtyard or consumed in complete relaxation in the fields of the farm with a view of the Langhe.

Tasting with a view

The tasting includes a savory snack based on cured meats (including salame and lardo from the Piedmontese Black Pig), cheeses, frittata, and other frehsly-made farmer’s dishes, accompanied by a glass of wine or a craft beer.

At sunset, the farmhouse takes on new colors and in this suggestive atmosphere, after a toast near the stone oven (from which guests can bake bread and focaccia), Andrea and Kelly welcome us to the barnyard where we find a long table laid out waiting for us. The atmosphere is that of a dinner among long-standing friends: the sun sets, the little lights turn on, illuminating the inner courtyard, creating an intimate and relaxed atmosphere.

The ingredients for the perfect dinner are all there. Starting with the food: Andrea’s selection of pork cured meats (for which he is renowned among starred chefs), Ocelli’s cheeses, the mustards, and the chili oils from Mosto Ardente. To crown a perfect evening, rivers of wine, Riesling, Barbera and Pinot Nero from Serafina Quota. What more could we ask for?

What’s next

Between agricultural aperitifs and tastings, walks, and private events, the Podere del Vescovo is a perfect destination to enjoy a day in the Langhe, under the sign of hospitality and conviviality. Guardians of local traditions, culture, and products of the territory, always with an eye towards the future. As testified by the latest news: the Skyhouse Experience glamping experience, which from April 25, 2023, will be added to the list of good reasons to come and visit them. Sleeping under the stars, overlooking the Langhe and surrounded by soft, friendly alpacas, seems too good to be true… But here, it’s reality.

 

 

Azienda Agricola Podere del Vescovo Via Costamagna, 5  Lequio Tanaro

andrearomerodelacruz@gmail.com

+39 335 6057140   @poderedelvescovo_countryhouse

 

 

*Arianna Cristiano

Italian and loud. Mediterranean Pop. Art director at @illotv

But also: illustrator, designer and photographer AKA @ariannacristiano @arianna.gif