Alta Langa at it’s best.

Words by Gernot Bilz*

Photos by Johanna Muther*

 

What is Gara al Palone?

“… The person who deflects the ball stands on the highest level armed with a broad wooden-spiked ring. Then, when a team member throws him the ball, he chases after it thereby increasing the power of the blow with which he strikes it, while the opponents seek to fend him off… The most beautiful positions worthy of being reproduced in marble come to light, since they are all well-developed, sprightly, young people, in short, tight, white clothes, with the only difference between the teams being the colour of their badges. … ”

This is how Goethe describes the ancient ball game, ‘Gara al Palone’, in his travel diary, “Italian Journey”.

We’re sitting in the clubhouse of the sport surrounded by the athletic and young, all of whom are just as honest and robust as our host and his son.

They were once stars of the local Palone scene, with reminiscent photos hanging in the dining room and in the kitchen. There is also a living room, a bar, and a storeroom for freshly prepared pasta.

We are directed to the dining room where red and white tablecloths are put on the table before we “kick-off” our phenomenal Piedmontese menu. Both us and the chef are ready to give it our all.

Like any match against an excellent home side, the ‘Us vs Langhe” game is hard, unfair and cannot be won. In the first quarter, we try to pick up the pace with the appetisers. The opponent delivers us unexpected obstacles, like baked mushrooms, at different intervals.

In the second quarter (typically our strongest) we empty the field of primi, finishing one after the other. The tajarin and ravioli dal plin have little chance, since we have rarely consumed such excellence. But, the beginning of the end comes with the secondi, where for the first time Cinghiale comes to the table; there is no mercy from such a superbly braised wild boar.

 

The Dolci that follows, we witnessed only for a second and the Lemoncello at the end made a mockery of us.

Post-match analysis: The food in this restaurant is unbeatable and “Alta Langhe at its best”.

 

*Johanna Muther studied photography in Vienna and Zurich. She has been working as a freelancer since 2007 and, together with Claudia Breitschmid, founded the Visual Field Research Collective in 2016. In addition, Johanna is able to put her interest in collaborative work to good use as a community builder at the Impact Hub in Zurich and is also active at dream tank BEAM as a project coordinator. With so many things to do, taking a moment to rest is well needed. A stroke of luck brought Johanna to Piedmont in 2013, and she has returned each year ever since; with every visit like a spa break for the soul.

 

 

*Johanna Muther studied Photography in Vienna and Zurich. She has been working as a freelancer since 2007 and together with Claudia Breitschmid, founded <jmcb – Kollektiv für visuelle Feldforschung> in 2016. In addition, Johanna is able to put her interest in collaborative work to good use as a community builder at the Impact Hub Zürich and is also active at dream tank BEAM as a project coordinator. With so many doings a pause is needed. A stroke of luck brought Johanna to Piedmont in 2013 – and ever since she returns each year. And each return is like a footbath for the soul.

*Gernot Bilz works on digital projects. When he’s in the analogue world, he enjoys a few days of time out at Langhe, where about a third of his band, The Burning Rosettas, live. As a singer and bass player, he managed not to drink every last drop at some of the previously mentioned bars and eateries, but to play until every last person has gone home. Gernot Bilz values such locations as Bocciarda, the Osteria da Gemma or the many other bars and eateries far away from the Barolo hype, which have not become corrupt or altered by tourism and money. Because at such places, you can still find different people and views at one place or around one table.