Simply eat.
Words by Simon Tartarotti*
Photos by Anja Kaufmann*
To go on a vacation in Piedmont is a privilege in itself. One realises it no later than in the early morning when, by opening the window shutters, the eye is allowed to meet the soft lines of the surrounding hills covered by vineyards and hazelnut trees. Allowed? Yes – because it is nothing less than a privilege to experience the feeling of slowing down and detaching oneself from everyday life, while spending time in this blessed corner of the world.
But is the sleepy loneliness, embedded in picturesque landscapes, enough to justify repeatedly picking the region for a vacation? From old journalistic wisdom we know that any rhetorical question (including this one) placed in this kind of context will be answered with a ‘NO’. Despite its brilliance this question is no exception to the rule, which begs the question: what is it, exactly, that makes the area around Dogliani so unique?
I already know that my friend will reproach my words, for they will cause expectations to get out of hand, but that uniqueness answers to five letters and makes THE BEST FOOD in the world: Gemma.
The Osteria da Gemma – named after the owner – can be found in Roddino. A place one would easily call a Hicksville in the middle of nowhere, without exaggerating. It is where for the last several decades, day in day out, she has been cooking the same meals for her guests.
How can it be that an ordinary inn, which has only been making one thing for decades – the very same thing – holds so much value? This Osteria by no means stands out in terms of furniture or charm when compared to the countless others like it; yet can it be a solid reason to repeatedly plan vacations in Piedmont? It can. Because, there, you can simply eat.
To this day, I still have to find a place able to excite me as much in terms of taste, size of portions, quality, and essential simplicity of the courses. I’d skip any Schnitzel in a heartbeat for their carne cruda. Mother’s Speckknödel would be ignored when put on the same table as Gemma’s homemade tagliatelle with meat sauce. And no Kaiserschmarrn would ever be a match for her masterpiece of a dessert – which ironically doesn’t even have a name, but compensates for it’s anonymity with Italian love expressed through biscuit, whipped cream, and brittle. For those seeking a more precise culinary tour, we suggest an article in the Standard (bit.ly/einfachessen) now over ten years old – the age not being an issue, since nothing has really changed since then in terms of the genius behind the food.
It is for good reason that it has become a tradition on every single vacation to go, on the very first day – no matter what time of day – to Gemma’s and start with this absolute highlight. Only to end up repeating the exact same highlight the following day. And the days after that. Every once in a while, one can be convinced to change destination for a single meal and go to one of the other marvellous restaurants in the area. But even this detour will result in mostly augmenting the thrill of anticipation for another meal during the next visit to Gemma. In conclusion, just one little final tip: avoid the rookie mistake of filling yourselves with bread and focus on what really matters – to simply eat.
Osteria da Gemma
Via Guglielmo Marconi 6, Roddino
0039 0173 794252
Closed Monday, Tuesday
Wednesday, Thursday open only for lunch
*Simon works in politics, and has therefore little leisure time. Because of that, he spends all the time he can in places where there is the least possible network coverage so that he can spend at least a few days of the year without being forced to be entirely driven by his smartphone. One of these such places is Piedmont, where he can enjoy air, calm, and food like nowhere else. So, if he happens to be in the general area, you will find him at the Osteria da Gemma in Roddino, where he either feasts on carne cruda or plays with the two border collies living on the neighbour’s property.
*Anja Kaufmann travelled to Piedmont for the first time in 2015 at Yvonnes invitation and has been figuring out how to emigrate ever since. A photographer and designer, Anja is the point of contact for the Wanna do What You Love? designers who want to participate in the packaging of future harvests. She is also in charge of the darkroom in our workshop.
